Monday, August 12, 2013

Just about up to date with South Africa!


August 12, 2013

The Circle of Concerned African Women Theologians Conference was an intense 4 days of about 70 together at a conference type center near the airport in Johannesburg, South Africa.  The Circle is nearly 25 years old and was founded by Mercy Amba Oduyoye who will turn 80 years old in October.

The schedule was very tight as paper after paper was presented to the assembled women with time for questions after each panel.  A panel consisted usually of four to five women who had papers on similar subjects.  For instance:  Gender, Religion Health and (Single) Women.  Different perspectives on different issues facing single women in differing countries were presented.

There were a total of thirteen panels and only two of them were run concurrently.  It was overload for myself and so I took several opportunities to enjoy space to myself in the room that I shared with one of the assistants at the conference. 

I also enjoyed the wide eyes that greeted me when the women would ask where I am from.  My standard answer has become “I am an American in mission in South Sudan.”  It is of course the South Sudan part that gets the wide-eyed reaction/response.  It appears to me that the global community has not done a good job of helping people understand that there are now two countries where one used to be.  Sudan and South Sudan.  I spent quite a lot of time educating people on the split, how long South Sudan has been independent and what are the challenges that each country is facing. 

The Circle has many books in publication now.  I learned that much of the production of the academic literature has taken place after the once-every-five-years meetings.  The Executive Committees would meet to create a framework and a topic for papers, then invite members to write papers that were then included in a published book for the Circle and also for readership beyond the Circle.  The books that were offered for sale this year included several that deal with HIV/AIDS, a very relevant and high focus issue in Africa today.  In fact in one of the panels, Gender, Health, HIV and Aids (Part Two) one of the Circle Women, Pauline Wanjiru Njiru, presented a paper that shared the plight of grandmothers who are raising their grandchildren in the era of HIV at Mai Mahiu, Kenya.  The said that these grandmothers are having to learn to be mothers again and they are facing stigma in light of this because the generation of daughters that they had finished raising have died from HIV/AIDS.  They are facing a lack of resources and are, in their own impoverishment, trying to care for the children of their dead children.

It was a difficult Conference in terms of the subject matter that was presented, in terms of the honesty that was present, and in terms of frank talk of the challenges that we as women face; both in Africa and beyond.  There were also times of celebration, joy, deep solidarity, despair, weariness and satisfaction that we are on this journey with sisters that understand one another.

I had time to reflect on troubled places in the world.  A lot of the troubledness has to do with colonialization, in whatever form it happens to present itself in.  Colonialization can be like a rose; a rose by any other name is still a rose.  OR, if it looks like a rat and smells like a rat, chances are that it is a rat.

In Belfast the deep societal divisions are caused by the choking relationship between Protestants and Catholics.  The root of this chasm goes back several centuries to the time that England allotted Irish land for plantations to Protestants from Scotland.  These Protestant Scots immigrated to Catholic Ireland and there has been upheaval ever since on the island of Ireland. 

In South Sudan there are deep tribal divisions.  My students in Malakal have told me that it was the British that stirred up the animosity between the tribes.  Apparently before the British and Egyptians colonized Sudan the tribes lived in relative peace (something like the situation in Palestine when previous to the creation of the Jewish State of Israel the Muslims and Christians and also the Jews who were present lived peacefully side by side).  The British created the idea of markings for each tribe and carried this out in such a way that the markings are still used, although the practice is dying out.  This is good in that they present health risks when they are performed. 

The United States and South Africa have both experienced deep racial divides between blacks and whites.  Another way to put this is that the divides are between black Africans and those who are from white European backgrounds.  When I heard about the story of colonialization in South Africa (and I am quite sure that I still have much to learn to be fully correct in my assessment) I understood that first the Dutch came, then the English, and somewhere in the mix came the French and the Germans.  When I have an Afrikaner (Dutch heritage) complain that only the black South Africans are able to find jobs I do not have much sympathy.  Who colonized whom?  Who was here first folks?  From my vantage it continues to be the black South Africans in servitude to the white European South Africans.  I’m not seeing too many South Africans of European background serving as maids and gardeners here.

In Soweto there was a Catholic Church that gave refuge to the black South Africans during apartheid.  I was so strongly reminded of Ebenezer Baptist and America’s own Martin Luther King Jr. as well as the army of unnamed women who were the backbone of our own Civil Rights Movement.  And then we could speak of/think of/cry many tears for the American Indians who have been displaced from THEIR land and cultures and languages by the very same white European colonists who created apartheid in South Africa.

I only began to under colonization, and this in an extremely rudimentary way, years ago at the beginning of my global life at a Recreational Equipment Incorporated (REI) store in the Seattle area.  I was looking for an adaptor to take to Europe.  I still didn’t understand the difference between convertors (that change the electric current from the American 120 to the rest-of-the-world 220) and adaptors that are used to make the plugs on appliances fit the electric outlets of various countries.  I asked the clerk at the store why an adaptor that would work in England also worked in Hong Kong when they were at opposite ends of the world.  I heard my first, “colonization” at that moment.  And thus the education began….

When I was in the Philippines during my time in China I was surprised to find out that Spanish was no longer the language there.  I also found out that English was the language of access.  To education.  To medical services.  To anything that was necessary for a decent standard of living.  English was the language of the oppressor.  Granted Spain had been the first oppressor, but around the world the primary language of the oppressor is English.  Having said that, Arabic, French, German, and I am sure others, are also languages of oppressors.

I learned during my Europe year in 2006 that in a foreign country I needed to go to the best hotel in order to find someone that spoke English when I needed help.  The shopkeepers generally did not have that level of education. 

I also learned in the Philippines that there is a Filipino language!  Tagalot.  Then English.  Then if a student, or anyone else I suppose, still has a desire to learn more languages they can go for Spanish. 

Language and schooling is yet another issue.  I finally understood during my time in Khartoum why it is that missionary parents usually choose to put their children in schools for children of foreign parents, or to homeschool them.  If a missionary child in Khartoum had gone to a local school they would have been taught in Arabic.  Upon returning to their home country at whatever future date that child would be at a great disadvantage and also would not be on track with the curriculum that would be necessary to go on for higher education in her or his own home country.  I have heard of children who were not well enough grounded in any language to be able to progress well in studies.  Something to think about.
Blessings,
Debbie

More on South Africa.

August 12, 2013

I am back at the guesthouse in Pretoria today.  I find my heart crying for South Sudan.  Coming back from Johannesburg was a world much like the United States.  Large cities where the outskirts basically blend the cities together, going from one to the other the only way a person can really tell the change is that at some point the buildings become more sparse.  Freeways and freeway signs abound, as do overpasses and vehicles. 

I assume that even South Africa has pockets of deep poverty hidden away in small villages that exist somewhere in such a large country.  I didn’t see anything like what exists in South Sudan.  In all honesty I have seen only Juba and Malakal in the South.  Juba is not nearly as massive as Johannesburg or Pretoria; it is however much more developed than Malakal. 

What hurt me the most was Soweto.  I could see that the people there definitely live a different life than the people in the neighborhood I am in here in Pretoria.  One begins to “see” the lack of educational opportunities in the kinds of clothing that are worn, in the weariness on faces, in the way that people clump together outside of neighborhoods.  Even in this economically disadvantaged area I did not see anything like the kind of poverty that we live with as “normal” in Malakal.  And frankly the most stressful and visually clear poverty I have ever seen in all my years of traveling and cross-cultural experiences were in a town in Mexico in 2005.  Not having lived in the town, only being a visitor, I don’t have an intimate knowledge of that poverty.

I found a woman at the Conference who has been in South Sudan and understood the things that I was saying.  I didn’t receive an invitation for Easter.  After church I went home.  Alone.  This woman told me that South Sudan is not typical of Africa, due to the amount of trauma that the country has experienced and not receiving an invitation to someone’s home is a part of that trauma.  I shared with her about people, both adults and children, using the streets of Malakal as a toilet.  I have seen adults using the streets, or the large empty fields as well, as toilets.  At one point when I was ill and a colleague took me to a clinic in the town the doctor talked to me about how unsanitary Malakal is.  He mentioned the fact that people defecate in the streets.  I know.  I have witnessed this.

As she said, it will take Malakal, and South Sudan, many many years to catch up to the development of other parts of Africa.  And this means catching up in many, many ways.  Developmentally the social, emotional and spiritual aspects of human existence must grow as well as the ability of the government to educate all of the girls and boys in the country.  The infrastructure must grow as well, including a system of roads and increasing food security.  People don’t want to grow crops because someone else will likely steal what they grow.  If what they grow remains in their own hands there are few ways to get excess to market, as there are not paved roads to access other locations.  Rainy season renders the soil of South Sudan impassable and crops rot in the places they have been stored.   I was asked if I knew of any women in South Sudan who would want to participate in the work of the Circle.  Not yet.  It is going to take time to bring the education levels up to the point of participation in the kind of work that the Circle, and other organizations, do.  The awareness that Theological Education is for females as well as males is going to have to be developed as well.  I am not sure that we will have any female students at the Nile Theological College this coming academic year, and no one but myself seems to find that incredulous. 

My heart weeps for Malakal and for South Sudan.  Prayers abound that change will be more readily sought and seen.
Blessings,
Debbie




Sunday, August 11, 2013

South Africa Continues....


August 11, 2013
South Africa

This has been a busy, busy time both the last two and a half months in Pretoria working on the Research Proposal for the Doctor of Theology in Missiology degree and also here in Johannesburg at the Circle of Concerned African Women Theologians.

I have learned, for instance, that Africa has Francophone speakers in countries that were colonized by France, such as Congo; and Congo is distinct from the Democratic Republic of Congo (DRC) {that has been in world headlines for having a tremendous problem with the raping of women).  In countries that were colonized by Portugal, such as Angola, there are Portuguese-speaking people.  We have had one woman here at the Circle Conference from Angola.  We communicate with her primarily by smiles and hugs.  And then there are Anglophones, those who speak English because they were colonized by Great Britain, also popularly known as the United Kingdom (UK). 

It appears from what I have been able to glean that those with languages other than English may not use tribal languages within the countries.  The French speakers, for instance, that we have here at the Circle Conference (CC) appear to speak even with one another in French and not in yet another tongue.

I knew that South Africa (SA) had been colonized by the Dutch in the Netherlands.  I did not know that then the British had colonized some parts of SA, they were known as the Boers.  The Dutch lineage appears to have become the Afrikaans, a spoken language that is somehow similar to both Dutch and German and yet is uniquely South African.  I have also found that the French Huguenots and Germany have had a hand in South Africa.  This is along with 11 official indigenous languages.  Someone said to me, “No wonder SA is known as the Rainbow Country!”  The United States is known as the Melting Pot, I guess that is a different root concept than Rainbow Country.

The racial divisions between white and black South Africans are palatable.  I sense that the different population segments live totally separate lives.  I even sense this in the shopping malls.  It is as if each people group lives in its own bubble and they just pass each other without interacting at any meaningful level.  This is most similar to the experience I had with Catholics and Protestants in Northern Ireland.  It is less so in the Republic of Ireland because it is a majority Catholic country and there did not appear/or feel to be as much polarization between the two populations as there is in Northern Ireland that is definitely a Protestant majority country.  The Protestants seemed to be wealthier than the Catholics and the two factions had very different cultures, even within the same country.  This is how I am experiencing South Africa.

More to come….
Blessings,
Debbie

Tuesday, July 2, 2013

The journey continues...


July 2, 2013

I am homesick.  I miss Seattle/American culture.  I miss people who speak English with MY accent.  I miss grocery stores with familiar products.

I got to go shopping today at a full blown grocery store here in Pretoria.  It was amazing, and challenging.  The last time I got to go and choose vegetables I was staying with a couple in Hollywood, California and the lady of the home took me with her to choose what I wanted her to cook with.  Now, I am the first to admit that I do not love cooking, but I am ecstatic about the idea of chopping up onions and tomatoes and putting them in with eggs for an omelet or into spaghetti sauce or using the pancake mix that I bought to make pancakes….etc., etc.  I have learned that in being deprived of a true supermarket experience and the ability and chose as to cook or not has created a true desire to do so.  At least for this moment.

I went to buy cheese for the omelet.  There was an entire wall filled with cheeses.  Not to mention all the choices of bread, juice, yogurt.  It is an overwhelming experience.  I keep thinking about the oh-so-few choices we have in Malakal, in South Sudan and I want to weep for the people who may never have and may never at all taste a strawberry or a blueberry….they did not have blueberries today but I got strawberries and cabbage and a bunch of other delectable veggies….oh for the joy of color and taste!

The English vocabulary here is so different than the United States.  I think it may even be more different than in South Sudan.  It of course has a Dutch influence and South Sudan has an English (UK) influence and that may well be the biggest difference, but still even in the UK I needed a translator.  I find myself wondering, whose English came first, theirs or mine???

I am in the new guest house now and am loving it so far.  Huge bathroom, by guest house bathroom standards….a showerhead that not only spews hot water upon request but is also adjustable….this shower is an enclosed glass container, no too long shower curtain to confuse the holy heck out of me.  I had to get directions for a second time on the tv in the room today, I am hoping that I might even get CNN or Al-Jazeera on it, although I don’t know what package the guest house has chosen to include for television.

This guest house reminds me quite a bit of the Mennonite Guest House in Nairobi.  My room is in a kind of courtyard area that as far as I can tell I share with one other room.  There is a planted area with lots of green plants and last night I noticed that things are well lit.  I am realizing that although I probably would not choose to live my the rest of my life in one room (albeit spacious) and a bathroom, I do like the idea of the independence of my own space and yet having the community areas – i.e. the kitchen which I am allowed to cook in (sweet Jesus!), the nice settings of furniture in and around the main building (I am not in the main building) and the interior of the main building that includes a nice little living room; apparently that room is warm in the summer and right now, winter, is freezing cold. 

Anyhow, the reason for the long explanation about the guest house is that I have sought out ideas for community living while having my own space and this seems to be a very good one.  Do we have guesthouses in the US?  I am not sure…or perhaps they are known by the name Bed and Breakfast.

Anyhow, I am in the midst of continuous culture shock, in the library using the excellent wifi to download from iTunes having copied material to work on at “home” for the next two days and realizing that I miss the culture that I know best.  My own.
Blessings,
Debbie

Tuesday, June 18, 2013

This and That....


June 18, 2013

I am going to quote from an Airline Magazine (Ethiopian Air):  “Closing the Gender Gap:  The next class of African women scientists chosen for the prestigious AWARD (African Women in Agricultural Research and Development) Fellowship will soon begin a two-year career-development program, empowering women to help close the agricultural gender gap.  Representing 11 countries and more than 20 agricultural disciplines, the 70 recipients were chosen based on intellectual merit, leadership strength and the potential for their work to improve the livelihoods of African smallholding farmers.  The fellows’ research will span everything from plant breeding to climate change.”

I have to tell you that I find this utterly fascinating, for two reasons.  1  Most of the world’s farmers are women.  Cultivate is the word used for farming in South Sudan.  Most of the women cultivate crops for their families to consume.  2.  There is something about professionalizing what has traditionally been considered “women’s work, or role” that does create a gender gap.  How many women chefs are there in the world?  The numbers are growing, but who is it that has been primarily responsible for cooking at home at least in the past?  WOMEN.  Men enter the world of farming and it is professionalized and women must do extra work to “help close the agricultural gender gap”.  This reminds me of something I read a few years ago about the feminization of poverty.  Salaries go down when fields open up to women.  Teaching, professional ministry. 

I just find it very fascinating.

Another issue that has become in-my-face-obvious here in South Africa is the issue of language.  I don’t believe that there is a single South African who does not know multiple languages.  Just as in South Sudan there are so many languages that I could not begin to put a name to them.  Fortunately there are likely a lot of cognates that make some of the languages somewhat similar.  Kind of how English relates to Greek and to German.  It makes it easier to learn languages that are in Families, similar roots and similar origins.  Why is it so difficult for us in the United States?  Is it because we are isolated except on our northern and southern borders?  Is it racism?  Is it a lack of good training in English grammar?  Is it a lack of motivation?  Is it that life has become so professionalized and so busy that there isn’t time for good old-fashioned study time anymore, and study time is required to really delve into a subject at the depth that is required for language study?  And some people do have learning challenges.  I am just truly puzzled.  People from the Netherlands have told me that they must learn other languages besides their native Dutch just to survive because their country is so small and it is the only place where Dutch is spoken.  So they know English, German and maybe French.  Arabic and Mandarin Chinese are two languages that are going to be increasingly global.  They are extremely difficult languages for Americans to learn.  Spanish might be a better ally.  I find myself being grateful to the world for learning my own language of English because of how difficult it is for myself and my country to learn their languages.

Finally today I am going to address the issue of heat.  I think I have at last figured out that America may be the only country in the world with central heating.  What the rest of the countries seem to have is a fixture that goes on the wall and usually is created to produce both heat and air conditioning.  I am going to try and get a picture of one to post for y’all to see, anyone who doesn’t know what I am talking about.  I am always shocked to see these air conditioner/heaters and yet it occurred to me today that this is ALL I have seen in other countries.  No heaters, no duct systems, no floor grates. 
Blessings,
Debbie

June 11, 2013

One of the other things I am noticing is what is considered socially acceptable in terms of “manners” from country to country, culture to culture.  Yesterday someone who was in line behind me was just fine with diving first for help at the store we were in.  I went up and asked if he was a friend of the woman employee because I had been in line before him.  He got up and apologized, and then she ended up going to where he was seated to help him before me anyhow.  I was just rather amazed by the whole incident.

In another store after that had happened I was busy helping get my groceries organized to go into my backpack and when I turned around someone was making a purchase.  I was startled and he said to me that he saw I was busy and so went ahead to the cashier.  I said that it would have been polite for him to ask me, it would have been fine and it would have been polite. 

I tell you, my reality has become that really for a sense of comfort in life, being in one’s indigenous culture is simply the easiest.  Not always possible, but the easiest.

I have also noticed here that there are very few people wearing what I would call indigenous African clothing.  Mostly they are quite Western although there is some creativity in color and how outfits are put together.  A very few of the black African women wear more traditional looking outfits.


June 10, 2013

Friends,
I had some real sticker shock at drugstores, internet stores and grocery stores today.

Every country is set up so differently.  The Pharmacies here in South Africa have grocery stores in them.  I found Lithium Energizer AAA batteries for about $4.00 although I do have to exchange them because I wanted AA batteries.  I paid well over $10. for the same thing in Juba, South Sudan.

Internet on the other hand…..is very very expensive here.  Especially when a person comes from countries that have wireless internet for, frankly, cheap.  I will not go into details with y’all, suffice it to say that I discovered that doing Software Updates on my computer eats a lot of mgs and costs a lot of money.  Sometimes learning can be expensive.

Now, on the other hand, the grocery stores can be cheaper than other countries.  A large jar of Nutella (350 grams, whatever that might be in pounds and ounces) for $3.20 a jar??????  I bought two to take back to Malakal with me.  I may get more as it doesn’t expire until 2014.  A decent size jar of honey is about $2.50.  I hope this doesn’t mean I am eating on the backs of underpaid farm workers.

I am concerned about what is going to happen when I enter a Costco store again in the United States.  The Checkers grocery store here in Pretoria today frankly overwhelmed me.  I found myself wondering how any store could have so many choices.  And…why does any store need so many choices?  How many kinds of shampoo and conditioner does the world need to be producing?  How many kinds of instant coffee?  This time there was even a label by Nestle that used the word GREEN!  There were some green beans in the mix with the ripe beans and apparently this is good for the environment.  It is scary how far behind being in the know I am.

Oh yeah, toilet paper, 40 cents a roll.

There was an NGO (Non Governmental Organization) Doctors Without Borders, at the shopping center.  The people that were representing the NGO were raising money for the efforts at working with tuberculosis.  TB is a particular killer in many countries that rely on donors to provide the regime of medications that are necessary in order to cure TB.  Often adequate resources are not available and as a result the TB is not fully cured and reappears.  The forms in which it reappears are resistant to any kind of further treatment.  It is a health threat that is much more cheaply dealt with the first time with the appropriate medication.  What I found today that is new to me is that it is often children who experience the devastating effects of not having adequate medicine to cure the TB the first time.  I imagine that the repeated episodes of TB weaken their immune systems and their little bodies and that there is a high rate of death among the least powerful and the least able to resist.

Blessings,
Debbie

Sunday, June 9, 2013

Ruminating...reflecting...thinking by writing....sharing with all of you.


On-going Blog

June 9, 2013

Friends,
I am in South Africa, in Pretoria.  I have been here for a week now having arrived in the late afternoon of last Sunday.

I have met both of my Promoters, the two women who have been assigned to shepherd me through the Research Proposal process and into the thesis process when that time comes.  I have been to the Pretoria University of South Africa (UNISA) campus now.  It is gigantic.  There are about 350,000 students globally.  Because this is an Open Distance Learning (ODL) University there are not generally a lot of students physically present on the campus.  This would take a lot of effort for me to get used to and grasp. 

I have learned that the library here at the UNISA Pretoria campus is the largest in all of Africa.  It is many floors high, some of them underground, and one of the things that I like most is that the Masters and Doctoral (M & D) students have a study are with wireless internet.  I am hoping to use that for doing things like Software Updates and downloading tv shows from iTunes.  Yes, I am totally about scholarly pursuits, am I not?  NOT!!!

I am at this moment drinking a cup of Roobios Tea that is a specialty of South Africa.  I am rather pleasantly surprised, as it is quite good.  Since it is quite reasonably priced here, in my own opinion, I may stock up on some to take back to South Sudan for myself and perhaps as an indigenous gift for people as well. 

I am having a time of puzzlement here in Pretoria.  This is a country unlike any other that I have visited in Africa.  Pretoria, or at least what I have seen of it so far, is quite modern.  I do understand that I must get out of Pretoria and see some other areas of the country during my stay here in order to see some of the other realities of South Africa.  Such as the poverty. 

Some of the prices here are very good.  What I found out yesterday in trying to pursue the idea of getting a new battery for my Apple computer is that technology costs a great deal more here than it does in the United States.  Someone said that the US is the least pricey, followed by Hong Kong.  It just so happens that six years ago, or so, I bought my first Apple computer in Hong Kong and indeed I think that the price I paid for that computer was somewhat comparable to the price in the United States.  So perhaps this is correct information.

There are many things which are just plain easier to get ones hands on in the United States, and much more affordable.  I plan to be in the states next summer and may have to hold off on some items until I am there.  For a new cell phone here in South Africa the stores desire a proof of residency, which clearly I do not have.  I can’t recall if that was a requirement in China where I bought my current, and very dated, cell phone.  However I did have proof of residency in China and that may be why I don’t remember, it wasn’t an issue at that time.

A person is not supposed to take two computers into Ethiopia.  This makes it difficult for those of us that live in places like South Sudan where it is not possible to buy a computer should the only computer that a person has crash.  This means that because my path frequently goes through Ethiopia I should not think of having two computers in order to have a back up for my first (and only) computer.  Yes, I back up data on an external hard drive.  Yes, I have replaced the charger that was failing.  Yes, I am trying to get the battery replaced so that I won’t have quite as much concern as I do right now before getting to the states next year.  But what do I do if my current, first, and only, computer should crash?  How would I access internet or word processing?  These are questions that missionaries in particular have to answer.  Business people who have access to unlimited funds may not have such a puzzle to work on.

I also had quite the adventure with the modems and SIM cards for internet yesterday.  I believe that I have three different operating systems for wireless and/or SIM cards running around inside of my Apple computer now.  I just hope that I didn’t accidently remove the one for Ethiopia a couple of days ago, and I may well have done so.  So now I understand that just having a modem and a SIM card is not enough.  The operating system for the particular SIM card must also be installed.  Any missionary novices out there listen up!  This information is for you! 

As long as a person has an unlocked modem it appears that any SIM card can be used in the modem.  The modem is just a vessel, it is not the system.  But the SIM card will not work properly without the individual system being installed.  As the man at South Africa Vodacom installed the Vodacom system yesterday I pried him with questions.  One cannot be charged roaming fees if one is using the SIM card indigenous to the country of the SIM card while in that country.  Even if a different operating system worked for using it.  In otherwords, I was using an operating system for Zain in South Sudan with the Vodacom SIM card for South Africa.  Because I was using South Africa Vodacom in South Africa, even though I was using the Zain system I was not charged roaming fees.  This was a relief.

By the time I retire someday in the misty future I shall hope to know enough to write a book on:  What Every Missionary Should Know and Had no Idea Who to Ask.

Now, on to the confusion I am experiencing here in Pretoria.  I believe that most of the countries in Africa, with the exceptions of Ethiopia and Liberia (someone else told me this so if it is wrong I am not responsible), were colonized.  It seems to me that in the case of most of the countries the colonizers vacated the country.  This is not so in South Africa.  Nor does it appear to be so in, say, Sudan.  In Sudan (in the north) the Arabs from the Middle East colonized the country and have remained so that in reality Sudan is an Arabic speaking Arab country and no longer African as I assume it was before it was conquered and colonized.  Most of the original population of black Africans would have intermarried until the original populations are no longer original, or have fled to South Sudan. 

In South Africa it was, I believe, the Dutch from the Netherlands, that colonized the country.  At some point in something called the Boer War, I believe that the English fought a war with the Dutch over the country and the Dutch won.  Cry the Beloved Country and Cry Freedom, two excellent movies on South Africa, helped me understand some of this more and I am still unsure of my historical footing here.  At any rate, the country definitely has both black and white (European ancestry) Africans; although apparently it is not normal for the white citizens to be called white Africans. 

From what I have observed so far there still seems to me to be a great separation in the lives of the blacks and the whites here.  Having grown up in the Pacific Northwest in the United States (the Seattle area) I have not spent much time in the American South to know if this may still be the case there or not.  In my mind I guess that the American South is what I perceive as being the closest to my experience here in South Africa of black and white. 

I am hoping for more clarity on this in the coming days, weeks and months.  This also has some ramifications for my thoughts on the United States.  The Europeans were the original colonizers of the part of North America that became, over time, the USA.  “We” did not leave.  So in a sense “we” are something like the Dutch in South Africa.  It absolutely dumbfounds and amazes me how history books are written from the perspective of the “winner”.  I do not remember learning anything about how the Europeans colonized the Native Americans, the indigenous people, and did not become good neighbors but instead put the indigenous people into little pieces of land and took over their homeland.  Hmmm, sounds a little bit like Israel and Palestine too, doesn’t it?  And, come to think of it, this is only about the indigenous people issue in the United States.  We also have the African American issue that includes the Civil Rights Movement and the history of the slave trade that involved many countries and much injustice, heart break and terrible brokenness.  All of these things are a part of American history.  It is not just the red, white and blue.

Anyhow, these are issues I am grappling with along with the Research Proposal.
Blessings,
Debbie


Thursday, May 30, 2013

Bringing you up to speed on the journey....


May 30, 2013

I’ve been at the hotel for less than 24 hours…what a difference a bed that is big enough, long enough and sturdy enough makes for sleep!  Not to mention having a remote control for the air conditioner.

Having said this I should explain that in South Sudan, and this was true in Sudan as well, many beds and chairs are made with colorful and strong string or rope.  Someone weaves the bottom of the bed over the frame, or the bottom and the back of a chair over the frame.  While this is of course good for local business it is not the most comfortable material to sleep on, even with a mattress, and box springs do not exist here.  In my case the college had transported my cotton full size mattress from Khartoum and I had to have a frame and bottom made for me in Malakal.  While I took good measurements and the men who did the work claimed to know what I was instructing them to do, they did not understand.  As a result the mattress sticks up on the head and foot of the frame and my feet go over the bottom when I stretch out.  So believe me when I say that a large enough mattress is a true blessing! 

I had a feeling in Malakal that my Solar Shower “showers” were not really getting me clean.  The bottom of the stationary shower here in the room was coated with grime this morning, I kind of winced when I saw that.  The actual shower head that does not work in Malakal because we do not have running water in the house is where I hang the Solar Shower.  It is not high enough as I think the SS is meant to be placed in a way high tree branch.  So the advantage of the SS is I am not having to use soapy water to rinse off but I have to hold the hose that comes out of the SS and it is not as effective as a stationary shower head.  There is also a lot of dirt and grime in Malakal and the SS cannot hold the amount of water (or I couldn’t carry it down the hall from the kitchen where the Clean Water Barrel is from which I fill it) that I would need for the kind of shower I am able to take here in Juba. 

May 26, 2013

There are so many developmental issues in this country.  One  of the issues is how to keep the ground from being over saturated during rainy season and how to irrigate it during dry season so that it averages and evens out and can be cultivated.  With cultivation will come the question of how to provide food security so that people know the food they grow, the crops they plant and nurture will not be stolen from them.

One of the issues for me living here in Malakal is the monotony in food.  The people here are used to having the same food every day, or however often they are able to eat.  The food is cooked over charcoal and I don’t think that spices or herbs or anything besides perhaps onions and salt are used to perk anything up.  The concept of Mexican or Italian or Mediterranean food does not exist here.  Someone asked me today so what is American food?  And I said, Mexican or Italian or Mediterranean or whatever because we have people from every country in the world in the United States.  I have my menu worked out for the first two days in Juba….spanish omelet, vegetarian pizza, crepes (supposed to be pancakes but they aren’t), spring rolls, vegetarian pizza.  In between there will be strawberry yogurt and snickers bars.


April 28, 2013

Life takes a lot of time without electricity or running water.


April 2, 2013

I have just woken up after a bare minimum amount of hours of sleep from a day and a night of travel to a place called The Grail in Cape Town, South Africa.  I wrestled the front door open and lo and behold my eyes feasted on a vision of nature that took me back to childhood to a place called Buck Creek that was a Presbyterian Church Camping ministry. 

There was rain last night and the greenness here is permeated with subdued water. 

There is rustic and then there is rustic.  The cabin, or little house, in which I slept is rustic.  However it has running water.  And a real kitchen with a running refrigerator.  I just heated water in an electric kettle. 

There were three airline flights yesterday to get to this destination.  I flew first from Juba, South Sudan to Nairobi, Kenya.  Then from Nairobi to Johannesburg, South Africa.  Then from JBurg to Cape Town.  THEN there was a van ride of at least 70 minutes out to our accomodations for the next week. 

As the plane flew into JBurg I looked around and realized, after landing, that the people who were on cell phones must be the folks who live in JBurg.  Then I realized this must be true for anywhere in the world that I land in a plane.  The folks on the cell phones are the natives.  In the case of most of the world this means that they have a SIM card for the country and aren’t waiting to purchase one, like a foreigner.  Oh yeah, that would be meJ 

I am very tired.  I’m going to sign off for now and continue to blog later.
Blessings,
Debbie